At Troisgros in Roanne oysters are served warm with sorrel and cumin. At Lucas Carton in Paris - above - large Belon oysters are roasted in their sealed shells, and served with white butter sauce with nuts, toasts and Bellota-Bellota Spanish ham plus a glass of Manzanilla sherry to compliment the ham. Herein at least there is some homage to the Basques from around Arcachon where they are served on the shell with little crepinette sausages (truffled for Christmas), bread, and the local white wine Entre Deux Mers. Although that history has been hijacked by Bordeaux the proper progeny is to the Basques by dint of the chorizo and their specially grown peppers that signal the dish as Basque, not Bordelais.